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Bombay: past and present of the hospitality and mill industries

We were lucky to be in Mumbai when the Kala Ghoda arts festival was on (1st Saturday to 2nd Sunday of February each year) and went on 2 heritage walks.
The first was on the rise our hotels and clubs in Bombay and the second about the textile mills that covered a good chunk of the real estate and drove economic prosperity. They were both really informative as Kruti, the leader, knows her stuff. I was also impressed that she and her co-organizers were able to lead 50+ people through the heart of Mumbai.
On the first walk, we learned about the hospitality history of Bombay. The tour started at the former Watsin's Esplanade Hotel. It was the first hotel in Bombay and was built in the 1860's of cast iron, all of which was transported from England. It now houses mostly lawyers being so close to the High Court. 

The former Watson's Esplanade hotel

Kruti informed us that the British wanted to build a club, but there was very little space in the south, so the first went up in the Bikaner area. A tidbit that blew my mind is that ice for the copious gin tonics the Brits drank was shipped from the USA as there wasn't an ice house at the time.

The tour ended at the Royal Bombay yacht club, which is a members only spot, so cool to get to see. Not sure all the members agreed though. It was founded in 1846 and then 30 years later the Queen Victoria supported the designation as Royal. The architecture of the place is preserved and you feel like you've gone back in time.




These men seemed less than enthusiastic about 25 camera toting tourists snapping photos while they tried to relax with tea and newspapers




The 2nd tour was a talk about the history of the mills and then a short walk. We didn't see any former mills and were so enthused about these mills that we drove around searching for ways to see them. We first went to India United Mill #1, where even pleading on our behalf to the guard didn't get us past the tall walls.

Peeking through the gate is the best view we could get

India united mill #1 is well guarded


We tried some others in Kalachowky, but the tall walls also got in the way.

Beautiful building east of New Hind Kesri Mills on Ghodapdeo and AG Pawar Marg


Outside New City of Bombay mills on AG Pawar Marg

New City of Bombay mills on AG Pawar Marg

New city of Bombay mills on AG Pawar Marg

India United Mills #2-3 on TB Kadam Marg

India United Mills #2-3 on TB Kadam Marg

Bombay cotton mill on Ganesh Nagar Marg

On our last day, our hostess to the mostess brought us to the Apollo Mill compound, which was exactly what we were looking for. We could get close to the buildings and see the stunning smokestacks. There we were able to pick our way amongst the old buildings a bit before the guard saw us and kindly suggested we move on. Score!!!






The mills are being torn down and replaced with high rise housing and alleyways of hip restaurants. We were informed that the development is meant to not displace people, but developers do as they please. The sad but real state for a city with water on 3 sides and a growing population.

We had the immense pleasure of staying with a friend who lives on former mills space. From the 18th floor, we could see out to the water on both sides. We were pampered with strong coffee, sunnyside up eggs and whole wheat bread, fresh lime sodas, mutter paneer. Our clothes got a good washing for the first time in a couple months. But more than anything, it was great to be in a home full of smiles and warmth.

In addition, we were treated to food and drinks at 2 spots that have popped up on former mills land: Bombay Canteen and The Barking Deer Brewpub. At Bombay Canteen we shared a bunch of appetizers, which was great as we could try more if the items from the list of Indian fusion delights. At the brewpub, I had a Belgian wit brewed onsite, a tasty break from Kingfisher.


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