While the Khajuraho temples are known for erotic sculpture, the sculptures depicting sexual positions represent only about 10% of all sculpture. Also, from what I can tell they aren't tantric in the pure sense of ancient tantrik scripture, but I didn't want to give up of the title.
At the end of the day, the erotic sculptures to be the main draw as it's not something you find everyday and it's fascinating to see what was being produced over 1000 years ago in India as compared to many other parts of the world. There were giggles erupting from the Korean women and I was wondering what their guide was telling them. A security guard was prompting a guy to stand brazenly in front of the upside-down pose. A dashing group in bright saris and white pajama floating through the temples. These were the sights in a day spent visiting the temples in Khajuraho.
Get there
There is a night train from Delhi leaving at 20.20 and arriving at 6.30 that runs 3 times per week. We were fortunate to be bunking with the loudest guy on the train. He talked nonstop for about 2 hours while his friend nodded his head. He also spoke Spanish, so we couldn't complain to each other in our usually secret language. However, he kept saying very blunt things, so eventually I brought up the subject of voice volume.
Me: "Sorry, your hurting my ears, could you speak a bit softer?"
Him (dumbfounded): "You think I'm loud? This is India."
Me (amazed he was clueless): "Yes. When you leave it gets quiet, when you come back, noisy."
Him: This is my voice. I can't change that."
Me: raised eyebrows
He had offered to drop us off near the temples, saying his driver would pick him up and town was on the way home, so we took him up on that. As we get out of the Khajuraho train station and are climbing in a tuk tuk, he says, "My driver is still asleep. My father confused him." This was hint number 1 that there were ulterior motives. Hint number 2 was when we stopped for tea and his friend started giving us a history lesson about Khajuraho. Hint number 3 was blatant.
He: "It is best to see the city with a local."
Me: "That is nice of you, but you have a short time at home, so I'm sure you'd like to see family."
He: "Oh yes, I see family. You go with my friends. It's a win win. They show you around and you give money. Haha. Just kidding."
And then he takes off on the motorcycle of another friend and we are left to break the news to our guide and driver that we will be going solo. They take us to a restaurant where we can leave our stuff for free. I get the guides phone number and give the tuk tuk driver RS.100 (he wants 200 and shows his nice laminated paper showing 200). I tell him that his friend said the ride was free, so he can go talk to him if he wants more. A few last ditch attempts by the guide and then we are on our own. That was too much too early in the morning. I'm ready to zone out with the news, but I'm reminded that the light is best in the morning, so we go to the temples.
The temples and town
There used to be 84 temples, but now there are only 20 or so. They were built between 954 and 1308 Chandella dynasty and are spread out across the town.
Western enclosure: Some are in an enclosed area and it costs Rs.500 to enter as a foreigner. Yikes! There are about 5 temples in the enclosure and they are all slightly different, but with similar figures on each. According to the museum, there are five types of figures: main deities, minor deities, divine nymphs, secular people, and animals.
It was a good idea to go as early as possible as by 10am I was convinced it must be noon due to the heat.
 |
| Sculptures of daily life & sexual positions - Laksmana temple |
 |
| Sculpture of woman removing thorn from foot |
 |
| Sculpture of nymph inside Laksmana temple |
 |
| Sculpture of deity - Laksmana temple |
 |
| Vishvanath temple for Shiva built ~1000 |
 |
| Colossal monolithic image of boar incarnation of Vishnu -Varaha temple |
 |
| Nymph on boar in Varaha temple |
 |
| Laksmana temple built in mid-900s is dedicated to Vishnu |
 |
| Support provided by attendees |
 |
| 2 onlookers hide their eyes |
 |
| Temple caretaker sang to Parvati |
 |
| Sculpture of handstand position |
 |
| Beautifully clad group in front of temple |
Eastern temples and Old Khajuraho
About a 20 minute walk to the east are additional temples that look quite similar to the ones in the enclosure and the main residential part of Khajuraho.
We were accompanied by a few kids who wanted to be our guide under the pretense of practicing English. When they started telling us where to go, I let them know that they were welcome to walk with us and practice English, but we would decide where to go. In the town, we were accosted by kids wanting, "pens, rupees, money, photos for rupees, chocolate, toffee" and people offering tours of their houses. We took one guy up on it who reassuringly told us we didn't need to pay and how great it is to be able to come in as we aren't in a tour and was then disappointed when we didn't buy his silk paintings.
 |
| Brightly colored houses in Khajuraho |
 |
| The green hatted toddler was peeking from around the corner and I wasn't nonchalant enough to capture without a rush if children... |
 |
| ...who wanted photos of their nails... |
 |
| ...and feet. |
 |
| Getting the other kids to back off so these two could have a picture was a challenge |
 |
| "Last photo" I exclaimed and then counted them off as I showed them the photo to reduce the pushing |
 |
| Lots of bikes and cows on the streets |
 |
| Our loud train companion |
Shivaratri fair
For the right days after Shivaratri, there is a fair in Khajuraho. It was fun to wander around and see what was for sale.
 |
| Chaat cart |
 |
| Woman selling vegetables with her baby son in her lap |
 |
| Sweets.. I think. We've noticed all the carts are the same. |
 |
| Ice cream cones at the fair |
 |
| Bangle shop. |
 |
| Couldn't resist some Briakfast and Dnnir |
 |
| Boys wondering why the cart above was so interesting |
 |
| A few days after Shivaratri, the moon is still smiling on this beauty of a sunset |
Eat, drink, sleep
Rajas: view of the temples from the rooftop seating. Decent cappuccino and muesli. Pizza could use a bit longer in the oven.
Indiana: super cool staff. Well priced drinks. Room for day trippers to rest and shower for Rs. 200.
Get out
Auto to the station should be Rs. 100-150. There is a train to Varanasi leaving at 23.40 that is meant to arrive just before noon. We were about 2 hours late and ended up stationary just 200 metres from the station, so jumped off there.
Comments