It is well worth the effort to visit Bijapur (aka Vijaypura) to see the huge buildings left from the Adil Shah era (1489-1686).
Get in
We came from Hampi on the bus. Took a rickshaw from Hampi to Hospet for Rs. 80 and there was a bus leaving in 10 minutes at 13.00 so we were in luck. The trip took 5 hours and wasn't too packed except for a 30 minute period where a 10 year old sat ony lap while I chatted with him mom and aunties.
We came from Hampi on the bus. Took a rickshaw from Hampi to Hospet for Rs. 80 and there was a bus leaving in 10 minutes at 13.00 so we were in luck. The trip took 5 hours and wasn't too packed except for a 30 minute period where a 10 year old sat ony lap while I chatted with him mom and aunties.
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| Bus station enroute |
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| The sisters and 10 year old who wasn't so sure about sitting on my knees |
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| Fellow bus passengers |
Sleep and eat
We stayed at the Rajdhani lodge which is directly north and walking distance to the bus station for Rs. 400 (no shower and noisy). We went out in search of good and started with a beer at a watering hole just south of the Bara Karman where we chatted with a group of tile workers. They were surprised to see a woman drinking and said their wives didn't drink because they were Muslim. I chided them about the rules that allowed them to drink and not their wives and they laughed sheepishly. A guy found us on the street peering into restaurants and led us to the Blue Diamond hotel for dinner. I'm always a bit apprehensive about following people places, but this turned out to be great. After we wandered back to the hotel, first taking the wrong street and passed an ice house and took some pictures with guys sitting on the street.
We stayed at the Rajdhani lodge which is directly north and walking distance to the bus station for Rs. 400 (no shower and noisy). We went out in search of good and started with a beer at a watering hole just south of the Bara Karman where we chatted with a group of tile workers. They were surprised to see a woman drinking and said their wives didn't drink because they were Muslim. I chided them about the rules that allowed them to drink and not their wives and they laughed sheepishly. A guy found us on the street peering into restaurants and led us to the Blue Diamond hotel for dinner. I'm always a bit apprehensive about following people places, but this turned out to be great. After we wandered back to the hotel, first taking the wrong street and passed an ice house and took some pictures with guys sitting on the street.
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| So so masala dosa across from Gol Gumbaz |
See
It's easy to get around Bijapur as anywhere in the center is Rs.10 per person in a shared rickshaw.
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| Shared rickshaws for Rs.10/person |
1. Gol gumbaz
It's a masoleum where Mohammed Adil Shah and family are laid to rest and the second largest dome on the world. Best to go early before as even about 10 others hollering to hear the echo is a lot.
This one costs to enter, but they accepted my PAN card, so I got to pay the Rs. 15 instead of Rs. 200.
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| Echo echo echo inside Gol Gumbaz |
2. Fort area
There are a number of buildings in this area, which Islamic history or architecture buffs would really get into. As we were headed down a dirt road, around the corner appears this older English chap with the "Monuments of India" book asking us if we'd found such and such mosque (we hadn't an idea), but were able to help his friend with text messaging on his phone.
A girl and her nephew were outside the Mecca Masjid, a small mosque surrounded by high walls. They seemed to live there with their incredibly friendly family. She was a patient and thoughtful girl, following/leading us around, quietly asking for photos, and only at the end requesting some money. Was a real change from the throngs of kids yelling, "pen, rupees" as the first and only thing they say.
There are a number of buildings in this area, which Islamic history or architecture buffs would really get into. As we were headed down a dirt road, around the corner appears this older English chap with the "Monuments of India" book asking us if we'd found such and such mosque (we hadn't an idea), but were able to help his friend with text messaging on his phone.
A girl and her nephew were outside the Mecca Masjid, a small mosque surrounded by high walls. They seemed to live there with their incredibly friendly family. She was a patient and thoughtful girl, following/leading us around, quietly asking for photos, and only at the end requesting some money. Was a real change from the throngs of kids yelling, "pen, rupees" as the first and only thing they say.
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| Schoolboys taking an interest in me as it was mentioned only in the Asar Mahal |
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| Very sweet girl smiled at me from across the street |
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| Pieces of the fort popping up all over |
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| Nephew and auntie who appear to live in Mecca Masjid |
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| Mecca Masjid and sleeping baby |
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| Sugarcane juice had a chunk of ice so we drank quickly |
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| Offices in the old fort |
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| Was Maharaja dining hall, now public toilet |
3. Bara Karman
Another masoleum, but unfinished. A story goes that if it was built, then it would produce a shadow on the Gol Gumbaz, so construction was halted. It is composed of a number of arches.
Another masoleum, but unfinished. A story goes that if it was built, then it would produce a shadow on the Gol Gumbaz, so construction was halted. It is composed of a number of arches.
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| Arches of Bara Karman |
4. Ibrahim Rouza
This is another beauty, though not as enormous as the Gol Gumbaz. It's the resting place of Ibrahim Adil Shah II. Same price as Gol Gumbaz.
This is another beauty, though not as enormous as the Gol Gumbaz. It's the resting place of Ibrahim Adil Shah II. Same price as Gol Gumbaz.
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| Down the street from Ibrahim Rouza |
Get away
We looked at going to Aurangabad next, but train connections weren't great on this day of the week, so went to Mumbai instead. There was one direct train, but there weren't seats, so we jumped off in Solapur for a few hours for dinner and got the 22.45 train from there. It was great because it started in Solapur so we could reserve a spot and it left on time.
We looked at going to Aurangabad next, but train connections weren't great on this day of the week, so went to Mumbai instead. There was one direct train, but there weren't seats, so we jumped off in Solapur for a few hours for dinner and got the 22.45 train from there. It was great because it started in Solapur so we could reserve a spot and it left on time.
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| Not so up to date bus timetable |
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| Fellow train passenger. Impressive outfit for 12 hour ride. |
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