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Bodhgaya: follow the Buddha's path to enlightenment


It was a pleasant surprise to discover that Bodhgaya, where the Buddha attained enlightenment was just a 5 hour train ride from Varanasi. How pleasant to go walk in the footsteps of this seemingly kind and thoughtful man. Having not done much research, I wasn't sure what to expect. What we found was a religious center for Buddhists and Hindus around the world and a struggling town, working to make ends meet.

Get in
We took a train from Varanasi which was 2.5 hours late and got us in at 1 am. After spending 2.5 hours at the train station in Varanasi with a sore throat and stomach bug, we decided to use the various train tracking websites.
Then you can get auto (Rs. 120-150 is what we bargained) to Bodhgaya. It seems possible to jump in a shared auto for maybe Rs. 10.

Eat, drink, and sleep
Buttshinji temple is associated with the Japanese temple and has rooms for a Rs. 800 donation for two. Supposedly they charge for wi-fi, but we weren't charged. The wi-fi is ridiculously fast compared to other places we've been. There is a school on-site so you are greeted by several little ones learning father, mother, brother, sistar, graindfather.
Fujiya Green restaurant for some rather greasy, but tasty Chinese and Singaporese style noodles
Ankul guest house for some ginger tea, fresh lemon soda and chilly potato was good
Be happy cafe for great cappuccinos and decent pizza, but high prices
Tirupati South cafe for thukpa soup at Rs. 70 was great for the sore throat, but not so authentic

What we did
With a sore throat and then cough, I was moving pretty slowly. The day we arrived, we went to the main temple and left our bags at the left luggage. You can't bring in a mobile phone and cameras cost Rs. 100, but there is no admission fee. It it nice to return to the temple at different times as there is constantly something happening.
After we walked through the market and down a long street of shops over a river full of trash. This is something that I don't get. Why put trash in the river? The shopping street was a dance of pedestrians and honking horns and I started to worry about premature deafness of many people living in India. The shops are bustling and I imagine you can find just about anything. We see saris and bangles, chickens and veggies, tailors and electrical supplies.

Mahabodhi temple marking where Buddha attained enlightenment


The footsteps of the Buddha

A descendant of The Bodhi tree
Monks meditating at Mahabodhi temple
Photo credit: @cesarmanzano 
Muchalinda pond near Mahabodhi temple

Women shopping for saris

Vegetables for sale next to river full of trash

Tailor outside a sari shop

Vegetable salesman


Woman selling chickens on the street

Woman sitting on the street with a look of sadness

On our way back we turn up the river and take an alley along the backside of the Mahabodhi temples and come into a Thai temple. It is eerily quiet compared to the shopping street and I savor this. I see a sign for key drop off and passports and reuse it might be possible to stay at a temple. 

Thai temple

Inside Thai temple

There are temples built by Buddhist organizations from a number of countries, so it's nice to visit them to see the architecture. We asked at the Bhutanese temple thinking it would be nice to stay a night there since it's so costly to visit the country, but the man there thought it was just for the monks. At the Japanese one, they pointed us the the guest house across the street. We returned to take part in the evening meditation, which consisted of 30 minutes of chanting by the monk and then Zazen meditation. I hadn't realized how strict it was. He told us we mustn't move for the 20 minute meditation else he'd come and smack us with his stick and afterward examined that we should endure the pain.
Earlier, we'd also walked through a housing area behind the row of restaurants where buses park. It was also a bit eery as no one really interacted with us. The kids who usually ask for pens and chocolates didn't (refreshing) or photos (my ideal way to interact). Women up and down the street were making what looked like long cotton swabs.
The 80 ft Buddha was visited briefly at night by peering through the gate and in the morning for a couple minutes as we headed to the train station. It's quite spectacular and I would've liked to spend more time there.

80 ft Buddha statue

There also seem to be a number of organizations with volunteering opportunities.

Get out
To avoid waiting hours at the train station, we used three of the train status websites (to feel comfortable that they had a clue where the train was) and showed up late. Then found the Grand Hotel restaurant with wi-fi and masala omelettes to wait out the additional hours until the Poorvi express showed up around 12pm, instead of 9:18am.

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