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Chennai: two delightful days

Having heard many a report that Chennai wasn't a nice place to visit, I didn't have high hopes. It turned out to be a lovely couple of days.

We arrived in the am after nearly missing the flight from Sri Lanka and needing to buy 2 outgoing tickets from India. Not thinking properly, so didn't book on a US or European travel site where there is the 24 hour cancellation allowance. Hopefully Air Asia tickets will come in handy in the next few months.

Got the train from the airport to Chennai Park by walking across the street and to the left about 10 minutes. From there, we tried to get an auto rickshaw to a hotel found on Wikitravel. First was asking way too much (thanks to Wikitravel we have the rates of about Rs.10-15) and the next one drove in a circle, having no idea where we were going. We jumped ship and wandered into Hotel Greens, which turned out to be delightful. The staff are very kind, there is filtered water so no need to waste plastic, and it was Rs. 1000. There was a sign about visitors being able to stay just 2 hours and needing to pay for showers that caught my attention; however, no chaos except the very loud families who arrived at 11pm and were shouting in the hallway.

After a nap, was off to change money in Egmore, where I negotiated for Rs.66.50/$1 and then off to see some Carnatic classical music. Every December and into the first part of January there is classical music, dance and drama and it seems much of it is free.



For dinner, we wandered into the Okadeys on TTK and Eldams Road for some delicious food and fresh lime soda (sweet and salty) - oh so thirst quenching.

In the am, we had some breakfast near the hotel at a "cool spot". Omlette and black tea for <Rs. 100. The omlette included 2 slices of bread with ketchup and mustard wrapped in the egg. With full bellies, we set out to see some sights. Started with the Sowcarpet area, one of the oldest districts and most chaotic. We took the bus for Rs. 6 as Google Maps made that easier than haggling with auto drivers and jumped down at the Broadway Bus terminal. Cool spot. A bunch of food vendors where we got a tasty cantaloupe juice and eyes some yummy looking biriyani. As we weren't hungry, we took only photos. Wandered around the streets, amazed at all he people squeezing through tight spaces with patience.

Hearing some drumming we peaked into the MMC grounds to find a few hundred school girls preparing for Sports Day.




From there we continued into the heart of the Sowcarpet district.




Next, we took an auto to Chennai Beach to see the 2nd largest beach in the world. First, we followed a bunch of people, mostly dressed in red to the grave of the former Chief Minister. She had passed away in December and is buried next to another Chief Minister. This is the 2nd grave of a political figure that we happened upon, the first being the former President of Uzbekistan.




Then down to the beach. It is also quite wide and full of amusement rides, food vendors, and trash, which made for a hike to reach the water. There were many people playing in the waves, mostly fully clothed although some of the males were in their underwear.




And many folks wanting to take photos with us or have their photo taken.


Then to the tomb of St. Thomas, one of three spots where a church is built over the tomb of an apostle. We came in the back entrance and saw a beach full of fishing boats and some shacks that I'm guessing were torn up in the 2004 tsumani.





After we walked to the Kapaleeswarar temple, which has the impressive towers typical of temples in Tamil Nadu. We had to wait a bit to get in as temple seem to be closed in the afternoon until 4pm. We deposited our shoes with the shoe guy (no need to pay) and headed in.






From there to the Ramakrishna Math Universal temple, which looked more impressive in photos than in real life.

For the evenings entertainment, we saw Bharatanatyam dance. It's spectacular to watch the specificity if movement and drama entertwined.



We got a recommendation for dinner to go to the Hotel Savera, but the prices were steeper (2 beers for Rs. 482), so decided it wasn't worth it to eat there. After enjoying a beer and some live music on the rooftop, we headed across the street and had dosa and a paneer parota at Chettinad Saiva Bhavan for Rs. 410




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